Art of Shaving

Wednesday, 02 December 2009 00:00

Godfathers Guide to Shaving

Today many men regard shaving as a daily chore which must be completed as quickly as possible. This is a pity as the benefits of a good traditional wet shave are many. It exfoliates the skin, removing dead skin cells and allows the skin to breathe. The method also provides the closest possible shave with lasting results. However, too often the result of an incorrect shave is discomfort in the form of razor-burn, rashes and dry-skin.

 Preparation

The key to the perfect shave is preparation. If possible, shave after a shower or apply hot water to the face prior to shaving to soften the beard and open the pores. Although shaving cream may be applied with the fingers, a richer lather is achieved with the use of a good quality shaving brush. The more thorough the lathering process, the better the shave. Use a small amount of glycerin-based shaving cream and rub onto the wet skin by moving the brush in a circular motion and back and forth over the skin, against the grain of the beard to produce good lather. Spend time on the lathering process, up to 2 or 3 minutes.

Shaving

Always shave with the lie of the beard, never against. Failure to do this is the major cause of razor burn. Glide the razor gently over the skin, holding the skin taut with the free hand whilst shaving. Keep the razor well rinsed to avoid clogging the blade and apply more water if necessary, not more shaving cream. Repeat the process a second time if necessary.

After the shave, apply cold water to the face to close the pores and pat the skin dry. In the event of nicks or cuts, apply a moistened Block of Alum or Styptic pencil to stop the bleeding. Apply a skin food or moisturizing balm to restore moisture and nourish the skin.

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Introduction

The razor belongs to the oldest tools of mankind. Open razors consist of a blade with tang and a pair of handles. It is drop-forged and hardened with special care. Contrary to pocket knives and household knives, razors are hollow-ground. The more hollow ground the blade, the sharper and more expensive is the razor. The quality of the special steels for razors has continuously been improved and different widths are still being produced. The widths of razors are indicated in inches. The 3/4" razor has the narrowest blade and the 7/8" the widest. The most popular widths in Europe are 4/8" and 5/8" but for a few countries 6/8" and 7/8" are still in demand. The thickness of the back is in proportion to the blade width. A rivet in the tang of the razor holds the handles together and allows the razor to fold. In order to maintain its extreme sharpness, the razor must be honed by hand on a leather strop.

Using a Leather & Canvas Hanging Strop or Hand-Held Strop.

Start with carefully opening and closing your new open razor. If you have never used one before and you can open and close it with your eyes shut without mishap, you are ready to learn how to sharpen it. There is a great art to stropping a razor correctly and much careful practice will be required. You must train intensively before you apply the razor to your skin. All the razors we supply are ready to use and do not need sharpening until after 7 to 10 shaves.

• Hang the leather strop, securely fixed to the wall at about chest height.
• Grip the handle firmly and pull out the strop until horizontal without making it absolutely taut or hold the hand strop firmly in a horizontal position with the end resting against solid foundation.
• First use the leather side of the hanging strop then the canvas side. A small amount of strop paste is applied to the leather side. With the hand strop, first use the wood then the canvas side. A small amount of paste is added to the wood side.
• Hold the razor in a firm grip with the tang between thumb, first and second fingers of the right hand. The thumb on the near side and the fingers at the back of the tang. Fold the remaining fingers lightly around the handle.
• Lay the razor flat on the strop, a short distance from the handle with the edge towards you. Holding it flat on the strop, make the first stroke upwards and away from you. At the end of the first stroke, about two-thirds along the strop, raise the edge without lifting the back of the blade off the strop and turn it over till the other face lies flat and make the second stroke upwards and towards you.
• Turn over again and repeat as before giving each face an n equal number of regular, even strokes. Six strokes to each face are usually sufficient to maintain the edge. Finish with a couple of strokes to the other side of the strop to clean the razor.
• The razor should now be sharp enough to cut a single hair held vertically.

You are now ready to start shaving, having followed the preparations as mentioned in our guide to wet shaving.

Wet Shave with a Straight Open Razor.

• Your skin has been prepared and a good lather has been applied.
• Hold the razor at an angle of approx. 30 degrees. If you hold the razor too flat it will tear the stubble, too steep and it will cut the skin.
• The thumb must be placed on the blade itself and not on the tang. The position of the thumb will vary as the different strokes are taken but it must always remain on the blade.
• Begin on the right side of the face and take the first stroke downward in a slanting stroke from the top of the cheek at the ear, with the razor lying almost flat on the face. The stroke should be made with the blade moving from point to heel in a scythe-like movement without jerks or chopping.
• The razor must not be pulled or dragged and the skin must always be held taut with the free hand. No stroke should be shorter than 1" of longer than 3".
• The right side of the face should be wholly shaved according to the diagram before proceeding to the left side.
• As the chin is approached, lift the razor slightly. Use the middle of the blade for going over the chin. Never begin a fresh stroke on a prominent part of the face, such as the chin or jawbone. Begin a little away from such places and work over with steady strokes.
• Treat the two sides of the upper lip as part of the face, shaving the right side from nose to face and the left side from face to nose, leaving the centre of the lip to be done separately by holding the nose up slightly to tighten the skin.
• For the lower lip, the first strokes should be taken across with the skin tightened between the thumb and finger placed under the corners of the mouth. Remove the remaining hairs on the upward stroke, beginning from the chin and allowing the razor to follow the contour under the lip.
• Having gone over the whole face once, it is usually necessary to go over a second time to ensure a clean shave. The face is lathered again as before but the soap will not require to be worked as long as before.
• The skin should be held taut in front of the razor and this time the strokes taken as far as possible, against the grain of the hair.
• After the shave clean the face with cold water and rinse the razor carefully and thoroughly, wiping it on a clean cloth before storage.
• Apply moisturizing balm to the face to soothe and moisturize the skin.
• Apply moistened alum block or styptic pencil to any minor nicks or abrasions.

Please Note: These notes on the use of open razors are intended as a guide. Shaving with an open razor is not easy to master and this guide is not to be considered a substitute for being taught by a Barber.

Care and Use of Open Razors

When examined through a microscope, the edge of a freshly set razor resembles a saw with very fine teeth. To some extent stropping preserves this saw-like edge but in time the teeth get worn down and the razor becomes dull. Setting restores the edge to its former keenness. Rest the hone on a solid flat surface. Open the razor fully out and grip the tang between the thumb and first finger of the right hand. The remaining fingers should loosely encircle the razor handle.

Now place the blade flat on the hone at the right hand end. With the edge toward the left and with a firm even pressure, slide it along the hone in a slanting direction, edge first, finishing the first stroke with the point of the razor near the edge of the hone.

For the second stroke turn the razor over and begin at the left hand end of the hone with the blade laid flat on, edge to the right hand and the heel of the razor almost touching the edge of the hone. With the same slanting movement, slide the razor toward the right, finishing the second stroke as before with the point of the razor near the edge of the hone.

At the end of each stroke always turn the razor over its back, never over its edge.

The strokes are repeated right to left, left to right, with equal pressure and movement until the edge is restored. The blade must always be moved along the hone in the correct direction and each face must be given an equal number of strokes. To be able to set a razor quickly and effectively needs patience and much practice.

When there is a distinct feeling of the edge gripping the hone wipe the blade carefully and test.

Hold up a single hair and place the razor edge smartly against it. If the edge is sufficiently keen the hair will be cleanly severed. Another method is to pass the edge of the razor over a moistened thumbnail. If the edge clings or drags on the nail it is usually sufficiently keen.

Godfathers Recommended Sensitive Shaving Gel/Foam

Left to right - Clinique M Shave aloe gel, priced from £11.00 at Mankind

                    Anthony Logistics for men, Shave Cream from £15.95 at Mankind  

                    Decleor Men Essentials, Smooth Shaving Foam from £14.50 at Mankind